Day 23 - Monday 27th January - Santana for Macapa

Marco Zero Monument on the Equator, Macapa in Brazil, 

The sun shines directly through the oval at the top and down the line of the

Equator during the spring and autumn solstices

For the second year in a row, the Brazilian authorities threw a spanner in the works and insisted that the Marco Polo reach Santana according to certain tide times.  This meant that once again, we missed Almeirim, somewhere we've only visited once before, but we liked it.  And it's definitely a better place to visit than Santana?  Sadly though, we've been forced to come to Santana a day early and stop overnight.

And Santana is not a nice place.  Mostly because it looks disgustingly dirty.  The people seem friendly enough, but there is nothing to see (or smell!), except grubby, muddy, litter strewn streets and houses.  Having been here before, Peter and I knew exactly what to expect.

Peter and I have agreed to act as escorts.  The only tour is "Macapa Sights" although there are a couple of transfer buses running into Macapa to allow people a look round as well.  I should point out that we should be on commission, because every passenger we spoke to we told to find a way to go visit Macapa, and not stay in Santana.  And most of them did it seems.




There were easily 10 bus loads of passengers booked onto "Macapa Sights" tour, and most of the crafters and lecturers had been roped in to act as escorts.  It's not a bad tour, you get to see the Marco Zero monument and photograph yourself with one foot each side of the equator.  Then there's the Sacaca Biodiversity Museum, where you can learn all about the indigenous way of life, their tools, how they make flour, and the medicines they use from the forest and plants around them.  We also got to see the Fort of Sao Jose, and a look round the craft market.  The guide on my bus was pretty good, mostly because he was really keen on indigenous medicine, he himself uses a local medicine for diabetes,  but the thing I remember most was at the fort, in the centre of which is a large hole in the ground that looks like a well.

It's not a well, and it fills up when the tide comes in.  The guide told us that nobody is sure what the hole was used for, however there are stories that it was used to torture slaves and prisoners, who would be left there when the tide came in, with the added risk of caiman, piranha and anaconda's...........  Well, that added a little spice to the tour.  He also told us that the portuguese soldiers didn't wash, because they believed the mosquito's didn't like the sweat or salty skin!  Ugh!

Inside the Fort Sao Jose.  You can see the well/hole in the ground in the middle of the square.

We, on the other hand, are doing plenty  of washing, or sanitizing at least.  There have been a few cases of diarrhea and vomiting, (D&V) on board, and we are all taking extra precautions.  My duties as escort was to squirt every passengers hands with sanitizer every time they got on the coach bus.  Hey Ho, all good fun I suppose.

We have to stop in Santana overnight, and we'll be here until midday tomorrow.  Apart from our tour, Peter and I have no plans to visit the local area.  We've tried that before....

So we'll have a see day after that, and then Isle De Salut, which we love.  I can't wait.

Our previous visits to Santana and Macapa can be seen here:
Santana and Macapa 2012
Santana and Macapa 2013

Day 22 - Sunday 26th Jan - Day 22 - Swimming at Alter do Chao

Market in Alter do Chao

Alter do Chao sits on a lovely little sandy lagoon in the middle of the Amazon. It's a small town well known to the Brazilians as a tourist destination. It's not actually on the Amazon River itself, but one of its biggest tributaries, the Tapajos River. This means the water is relatively clear and dark green, rather than the milky tea colour we've been sailing along for the last 5-6 days.
We like Alter Do Chao, it's a bit like going to the seaside, Brazilian style. There is a little sort of market square, surrounded by shops and restaurants. It's a lovely place to spend money in, and even better, it has free wi-fi, which meant Peter was entertained whilst I spent cash.
From there we walked down to and along the river front. There is a little island in the centre of the lagoon called Love Island. For a small cost, a water taxi will take you across to the island where you can enjoy food and drinks in the bars and restaurants as well as a swim in the Lago Verde, (Green Lake).

Love Island, Alter do Chao

We didn't get to Love Island, but we did enjoy a swim in the wonderfully warm water. It really is a lovely place and it was a shame we couldn't spend more time there.
We did get to see some beautiful birds though. I'm sorry that the pictures are a little blurry, but you'll appreciate the colours.

Oriole Blackbird at Alter do Chao

Red Capped Cardinal at Alter do Chao

From Alter do Chao, the ship continued downriver to Santana. We watched Richard Sykes' tribute to Victoria Wood later in the evening, which was really good fun, before going to the cabin to bed.
We'll get to Santana about lunchtime tomorrow. It'll be our last port on the Amazon which is sad, but Peter and I are escorting, so we'll get to have another look the Marco Zero Monument in Macapa, which is good. So here's to tomorrow.

Day 21 - Saturday 25th January - Parintins

The Boi Bumba Bull from folklore.

Parintins is located on a little island called Tupinambarana (no, I can't pronounce it!) It's a peaceful little town, with a very relaxed atmosphere, until their Boi Bumba festival at the end of June, the second largest festival in Brazil. The Boi Bumba is essentially a dance off between the Caprichoso and Garantido teams, telling an Amazonian folk legend. The winning team is the one with the most elaborate costumes, body paint, expressive dances, loudest music and most enthusiastic supporters.
Sadly, we've arrived in January, not June. However, the town provides a show to passing cruise ships to give a taste of what the festival, and it is absolutely fantastic. I know this because Peter and I have attended it before, unfortunately we didn't get to see it this time.

The main street in Parantins.  Curious how the trees are painted white.

The main forms of transport in Parintins are bicycles, motorbikes and pedicabs.  

Instead, we had a potter around Parantins. The ship was having problems getting us to the town, because the river current was so strong only the bigger tenders could take us across. It slowed things down a little, but we were in no hurry.

Once in town, I experimented a little with Peter's camera, testing out the zoom lens to photograph a few birds. I was absolutely delighted with my pictures.

Blue Grey Tanager in Parantins

Smooth Billed Ani  (How good am I?  Learning the names of all these birds)

Peter needed some new sunglasses, and found a pair he liked the price of (cheap) in a little shop on the main street. Anyone who knows him knows he can be very animated - which translates in any language. Peter's confusion over a small 10 cent coin caused the shop keeper to decide he liked him and giving him a couple of sweets, (like a child?) Anyone who knows him will also know Peter's reaction to sweets! But he behaved himself on this occasion. The sunglasses are cool too.

The Marco Polo anchored in the Amazon

It was a half day in Parintins. We waited at the pier for our tender and were lucky enough to see both gray and pink dolphins in the calm water nearby. Not a bad day then. And it was all finished off with a drink in Scott's Bar and Burns Night celebrations.
Tomorrow is Alter De Chao and a chance for a swim. Yippeeeee.