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Sunday 16 April 2023

Sunday 16th April – Syracuse

We like Syracuse. We came here last year and loved it. The ship docked at Porto Grande, within 5 minutes walking of Ortygia, the historical centre of Syracuse. Basically you come out of the port, turn right, go over a couple of bridges and you are there. We spent a day wandering around it during our last visit. Today we have other plans. So today we came out of the port and turned left, with two destinations in mind. The first was the Basilica Santuario Madonna delle Lacrime, a “distinctive church with many chapels”. The reason we wanted to see it was because of that shape, which could be seen from the ship. We had to go look.

It did look grand from the outside, but in all honesty, we weren't that impressed with the interior. It sort of reminded me of a conference centre. Yes, the building was dramatic, but even that reminded me of communist era concrete. But we've seen it now so ...... tick.

From there we made our way to the The Neapolis, an Archaeological Park just 20 minutes walk from the port. I'd researched it from home, and thought it was just our cup of tea. And it was perfect!

The Stone Quarries, or Latomie
OK, so I knew about the caves, and the Ear of Dionysius and the amphitheatres, but no way was I prepared for the Stone Quarries. The area was stunning! Perhaps we were seeing it at it's best, it being spring and all, but the flowers and the smells were wonderful.

I can't recommend this place highly enough. There's quite a lot to see, and if we'd read the guide bookwe'd bought (unusual for us), before walking around, then we would have understood and seen a lot more I suspect. But all that aside, we had a brilliant morning there, and will visit again I think. For info, all of these quarries and caves were carved out by hand, and some date back to the seventh century BC.

Entrance to the Rope Maker's Grotto

The Rope Maker's Grotto, so called because, from the 17th century, rope maker's took advantage of the spring inside to soak their hemp.

The most famous of the quarried caves is The Ear of Dionysius.  The accoustics are incredible.

The Stone Quarries from above

The Greek Ampitheatre, which I think is the better of the two.  Sadly being used for some play or production, which meant much of the original stone was covered.  I'm hoping it's clear if we visit again.

The Roman Amphitheatre. Gladiators fighting? Stories being told in plays? Chariot Racing? Who knows?

I don't know what this flower is, but there were quite a few about, and I thought they were stunning.
After our walk around, we stopped for a late lunch in the park before deciding where to go next. We really liked Ortygia during our last visit, so walked back for another wander around. The fountain of Diana is beautiful, and the little narrow back streets are enchanting.
The Fountain of Diana
For the less able, Tuk-tuks flitted around, the only vehicles small enough to fit down the narrow channels.

Charming narrow streets throughout Ortygia
Finally it was time to get back to the ship. We got back with plenty of time to spare so I took advantage of the fact it was a port day. Normally, a week into the cruise, the 6 washing machines in the two on board launderettes are in full demand. It's difficult to find one empty and get your washing done. But on port days, passengers are busy elsewhere. I walked in with my load of washing and Yesssss, an empty machine. Another job done.

We ended the day by watching another show in The Playhouse - Peter had heard good things about Graffiti Classics - a string quartet, so we went to watch their act. Sooooo funny. The Base player is a bit of a manic, loose cannon. I wouldn't want to be the guy who walked in late (and there was one). A brilliant night.

So that was Syracuse, which we will be very happy to visit again in October, but tomorrow is another sea day. Good, my legs need a rest.

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